Behavior & Training > Bites when happy?


Saber-toothed- House Cat
Purred: Wed Apr 27, '11 10:59am PST 
I had wondered if maybe he just got a little too excited. He adores attention but usually only from me lol

Thanks Kelby, he is very sweet. His father was a Maine Coon so he probably will get pretty big!

» There has since been 8 posts. Last posting by , Jul 17 11:21 am

Behavior & Training > Bites when happy?

Saber-toothed- House Cat
Purred: Wed Apr 6, '11 10:01am PST 
My cat Remy is around 8 months. He's scared of strangers but with me he's very affectionate. As soon as I sit down after getting home, he'll run over and start walking back and forth across my lap purring like crazy. So I'll start petting him and at first it'll be fine and then he'll suddenly turn his head and bite my hand. Or he'll be rubbing his face on mine and then bite my face.

Not super hard but this cat has really long, sharp teeth (I've had quite a few cats and I've never seen one with teeth like his). Plus he's been on whole prey since I got him at 8 weeks so he has a very strong jaw. So even a moderate bite from this cat is pretty painful.

I understand young cats bite in play but it's like it's his way of showing affection. I'm not sure how to stop this behavior. Usually I'll say, ouch and stop petting him for a minute but that doesn't seem to be effective. He'll just sit there purring until I start petting him again and then bite me. If I take him off my lap and set him on the ground, he comes right back.

He also drools a fair bit when he's happy and purring. It gets quite wet around his mouth and occasionally drips. Is this normal?

» There has since been 11 posts. Last posting by , Jul 17 11:21 am

Cats and a Clean Home > Do intact males always spray?


Saber-toothed- House Cat
Purred: Thu Mar 17, '11 11:27pm PST 
Thanks for all the responses! I probably won't ever keep an intact kitty but it's always interesting to learn new things about cats kitty

» There has since been 12 posts. Last posting by , Jun 22 9:37 pm

Cats and a Clean Home > Do intact males always spray?


Saber-toothed- House Cat
Purred: Tue Mar 15, '11 11:53am PST 
Remy was neutered at 6 months so that's not why I'm asking. I'm just curious.

Do indoor intact male cats always spray or is it just more likely than with a neutered male? I understand spraying isn't the only reason to neuter (pet overpopulation, health reasons, roaming, fighting, ect.) but I'm just curious about the spraying. Are there ways to prevent/discourage a male from spaying short of castration?

» There has since been 19 posts. Last posting by , Jun 22 9:37 pm

Raw Food Diet > Always Hungry....


Saber-toothed- House Cat
Purred: Thu Dec 30, '10 11:32pm PST 
Mine is around the same age and I let him eat as much as he wants. They really do pack it away but kittens are high energy and of course growing so they need the extra food. I've also heard that animals on a raw diet eat a lot when first switched, young or old, and then slow down a bit after a while. Their bodies are usually hungry for the nutrients they weren't getting with kibble.

» There has since been 3 posts. Last posting by , Jan 23 10:23 pm

Raw Food Diet > General Raw Feeding Guidelines

Saber-toothed- House Cat
Purred: Thu Dec 30, '10 11:23pm PST 
This isn't actually a question, nor was it written by me but I thought of this forum when I read it so I thought I'd share. It was written by a member of my Holistic Ferret Forum and is shared with her permission.

General Raw Feeding Guidelines For Cats and Ferrets

Use at least three different meat sources, and more is better. A variety of sources ensures a more complete balance of nutrients as well as enrichment through different tastes and textures.

Avoid processed meats and those with added sodium solutions. Poultry labels especially need to be watched for added solutions.

Bone must always be served raw. Cooked bones lose nutrients and become brittle, posing choking hazards and may puncture or obstruct the digestive track. Do not defrost boned foods in the microwave, this also makes them brittle.

Small bones (chicken, duck, rabbit, quail, etc) are completely edible. Turkey necks and ribs can work, though their leg bones tend to be too dense for most animals.

Large bones (beef, pig, sheep, etc) are too hard to be edible. With meat and marrow attached, they can provide some nutrients and enrichment, but should be avoided if the pet is a vigorous chewer to prevent damage to teeth.

Starting out, pets may not want to switch. If this is the case, sneak small amounts of either blended or ground raw mixed in with a food they do like and gradually increase the amounts until they will eat the raw alone. Then gradually increase the size of the meat and bone pieces until they are eating the desired size chunks. This process also gives their jaws time to build up the muscle strength necessary to crunch through bone. Larger meat and bone pieces are necessary for healthy teeth, so while feeding ground/soup mixes it's important to brush teeth to prevent build-up.

Cats can be very difficult to switch straight from kibble, so switching to a moist canned food (as it's closer in texture to a ground raw) and then following the above steps may help. If a cat won't eat at a certain step, go back to the last mixture they would eat, be patient, and try again later.

The larger the pieces of meat, the longer it can be safely left out. Ground meats and soups generally are fine for 6 hours, larger chunks for 12, whole prey can be left for 24 as the skin also provides protection.

Heart meat is considered a muscle meat (not an organ) and it's one of the best sources of taurine, which is an essential amino acid for cats and ferrets. If ample quantities of heart meat cannot be provided, taurine supplements can be purchase at most GNC-type stores and sprinkled into the food. I feed about 10% heart.

These proportions best emulate the whole prey model:
75% muscle meat
10% edible bone
10% organ meat
5% roughage

Some people prefer to omit the roughage and feed that extra 5% as edible bone. Roughage can be canned pumpkin, baked squash, spinach, basically any high-fiber/low sugar veggie. Onions and garlic are toxic and should not be fed, and these veggies should be cooked til soft and/or blended to prevent obstructions. This roughage basically takes the place of the skin, fur, feathers, and possible stomach contents they would consume from the whole prey and seems to support healthy intestinal flora.

Cats may require less bone and organ than ferrets so the above ratios can be adjusted to approximately 83% muscle meat, 6% edible bone, 6% organ, 5% roughage if feeding only cats and constipation or other stool issues become apparent.

Organ meat should be half liver and half other secreting organ (such as kidney or spleen). Most animals dislike the taste of straight organ meat, it can be disguised by grinding and mixing it with some ground muscle meat and the roughage. Organ and fish meats are particularly rich and, especially in animals new to raw, may cause tarry, smelly stool and gas.

Common raw diet types are commercial (often ground or freeze-dried), frankenprey (creating your own diet using the above ratios), and whole prey (feeding whole prey animals such as mice and quail). One may split up meals (for example chicken wing one meal, pork chunks and liver the next, a whole mouse for another), or one may opt to bag everything together as I do in my recipe. These styles can be used in tandem as long as the proper ratios and meat source variety are provided over the course of each week. Also, stools will change color and consistency depending on the meal fed.

A blender/food processor can be used for making raw soups or mixing the organs, but I prefer an old hand-crank meat grinder for easier cleaning and to keep my blender from smelling like liver. I found mine for $5 at a local Goodwill.

Animals fresh to raw feeding will eat more the first few months as their body takes in the nutrients they've been missing, and animals also tend to eat more in the fall and winter as they bulk up for the cold.

Example Recipe

Following is the general recipe I use since I can get these ingredients cheap, though if I find something good on sale (like different cuts of beef, cornish game hens, turkey, or rabbit) I'll make substitutions while still following the ratios on the previous page.

This recipe makes approximately 20 pounds of food and lasts my 3 cats and 4 ferrets approximately 2 weeks and usually costs $35-40. I scoop 1 cup portions into sandwich baggies and freeze them in a rubbermaid tub. Each portion takes the animals anywhere from 10 minutes to 10 hours to polish off, but on average it takes around 6 hours. With larger (or less spoiled!) animals, one should be able to get away with even larger pieces like whole wings, but my guys aren't quite there yet. The whole chickens I buy when on sale at a regular grocery store, but practically everything else comes from the local Asian Market.

When feeding cats only, you may omit the * items as well as the chicken breast and thigh bones after the meat has been removed. I find the ferrets help regulate the bone content by stealing many of the larger pieces before the cats get to them.

2 whole chickens, breasts set aside
1 lb pork shoulder roast, ½ set aside
1 lb chicken gizzards, sliced along the tendons
1 lb chicken hearts, whole
1 lb beef/pork heart
1 lb chicken feet*
1 lb bag mixed duck parts if available (feet if included*)
1 lb beef stir fry scraps, ½ set aside
1 lb lake smelt, some left whole

Chop the above into roughly 1/2”-2” chunks unless otherwise noted, crunch any thick bones with a meat mallet so they're also about that size.

breasts from chickens
½ pork shoulder
½ beef scraps
1 lb beef/pork/chicken liver
1 lb pork kidney/spleen
½ lb unbleached blanket tripe
½ acorn squash, seeded and baked til soft
A handful or two of chopped spinach

Grind the above, mix well, then mix it in with the stuff from the top so everything's well coated. Freeze in appropriately sized servings and thaw as needed.

Handy Links

A Practical Guide for Raw-fed Cats

Written by justahannah at: http://holisticferret.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=gen&action=displ ay&thread=6631

» There has since been 1 post. Last posting by , Jan 4 2:30 pm

Raw Food Diet > Any videos or pics of your cat eating raw?


Saber-toothed- House Cat
Purred: Sat Dec 18, '10 2:20am PST 
Hm I guess I tried to edit out that space in my link too many times because my edit button is gone XD Anyway, if you delete the space that kept getting added to the link, it goes to my ferret forum to a thread I started for pictures of cats and dogs eating raw. The first pictures are my kitten eating whole prey.

» There has since been 2 posts. Last posting by , Dec 24 5:49 pm

Raw Food Diet > Any videos or pics of your cat eating raw?


Saber-toothed- House Cat
Purred: Sat Dec 18, '10 2:00am PST 
http://holisticferret.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=otherpet&action= display&thread=6464

» There has since been 3 posts. Last posting by , Dec 24 5:49 pm

Raw Food Diet > Feeder Rats


Saber-toothed- House Cat
Purred: Tue Dec 14, '10 3:40am PST 
I disagree that adult rats are too large. My cat is only four months old and he eats adult rats no problem. The ferrets and cat are on a completely whole prey diet and get whole, adult mice, rats, quail, guinea pig, and even rabbit. It's true they won't eat something large in one sitting but they always finish eventually.

Getting a cat (or ferret) that's used to eating kibble to eat whole prey can be difficult though. If the animal is young and hasn't been eating kibble long, the switch isn't too bad but an adult cat that's eaten kibble all it's life may be reluctant to try raw meat let alone meat covered in fur. Before even trying whole prey, I would offer some raw chicken, beef, pork, ect.

If he'll accept that, move on to whole prey. You can try offering the prey intact but most cats won't recognize it as food. I used "soupie" to switch my cat to raw. That is, I tossed the whole prey (mice and rats at the time) into the blender with some water and made a prey smoothie. He was still reluctant to try it but after I stuck a bit in his mouth, he was hooked. From there just make the soupie chunkier each time and eventually just cut the mouse or rat in half. By then, he'll have figured out the rodent is food and should have no problem digging in on his own.

» There has since been 1 post. Last posting by , Dec 16 10:01 pm

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