The DOG FOOD TEST & General Dog Food Info

(Page 4 of 8: Viewing entries 31 to 40)  
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You may- approach.
Purred: Thu May 7, '09 5:59am PST 
I wish they'd make up their mind: is Nutro good or bad. This is a QUOTE from a non-Dogster group:

" I found this snippet of an article and the corresponding link on the Labrador Retriever chat board and thought y'all who feed Nutro might find it interesting.

(WXYZ) - There has been a lot of web buzz about an article posted on Consumer Affairs' web site regarding the safety of Nutro Pet Food. Action News has talked with the Food and Drug Administration and they insist there is no "investigation" underway.

An FDA spokesperson says, "Normally, we do not confirm or deny the existence of an investigation. In this situation, though, it's unfair to the company to leave the implication out there, so I want to state that there is NO INVESTIGATION currently underway into NUTRO products."

Rumors that the food was making pets sick quickly circulated on the internet because of the report, but Nutro is assuring consumers that their pet food is safe.

NUTRO also released this statement to concerned consumers:

On April 20, posted a story claiming that the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has an ongoing investigation into NUTRO® pet food. This is not true. We have confirmed with the FDA’s division responsible for regulating pet food, the Center for Veterinary Medicine, that there is no current or ongoing investigation of Nutro Products, Inc.

We want to assure our consumers, associates, retailers, and all those who feed NUTRO® products to their pets that our products are safe and conform to the standards set by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration, the U.S Department of Agriculture and the Association of American Feed Control Officials. All NUTRO® products undergo rigorous quality assurance testing beginning with raw ingredients and ending with testing finished products. This includes testing to confirm that no melamine, mold toxins, or pathogenic bacteria are detected in any NUTRO® pet foods. "

Buddy- ADOPTED!!

I don't walk - I run!
Purred: Thu May 7, '09 7:06am PST 
Personally, I feel that it's all about the ingredients...and how YOU feel about them, and how your dog DOES on them.
Abby and Shadow used to get fed Nutro Natural Choice. Then they changed their formula (or something) and the both started to get the diahrrea a lot - so we switched them. Plus, I started learning more about what SHOULD, and SHOULDN'T, be in a dog food. Shortly after the switch, the recall happened.
I've never fed them canned dog food - except on special occassions (barkdays, Xmas, Thanksgiving, etc) and that is MAINLY what was involved in the recall, but it makes one wonder - if the canned stuff is tainted, why should I trust the kibble. Just my take on it.


You may- approach.
Purred: Thu May 7, '09 9:19am PST 
Buddy, that's about what it seems to be, a change in the ingredients. And, of course if you didn't know about the change, you'd swear that your dog was eating bad food! How come it took so long for this to come out. You have to wonder...


Where's the- Ball?! Throw- the ball!!!
Purred: Fri May 29, '09 8:18am PST 
eekCould this be true?!

Natural Flavor. I always like the way pet food companies hide the use of manure in the ingredients. Natural flavor is made from the manure of the animal the pet food company wants the dog food to taste like. Yep, Exclusive Chicken is flavored with chicken manure.

Ma just wanted to check online to see what was in super-cheap 'Exlcusive' brand dog food advertised in the feed store flyer. At less than $1 per pound, you know this stuff is cheap sh*t. This came up as part of a review of Exclusive dog food.
Animal excretement as flavoring. What will they think of next (shudders)?eek

Edited by author Fri May 29, '09 8:25am PST


You may- approach.
Purred: Wed Jun 17, '09 8:31am PST 
An article from WWW.DOLITTLER.COM
A veterinary blog for pet lovers, vet voyeurs and the medically curious...

Prescription Diets in name only: On marketing, distribution and retailing of Rx foods for pets
Is your pet on a prescription diet? Let me rephrase that: Is your pet on a “Prescription Diet”?

If so, is your veterinarian the only place you can go to pick up your Rx-labeled pet food? If it’s sold at the big-box pet store down the street, do you have to arrive at said pet store with a written prescription in hand before you can pick up a bag or case of pet food? Did you ever wonder why veterinarians and pet stores are so persnickety about this?

Food is food, right? How can the FDA require a prescription, with all that entails (namely, a valid veterinarian-client-patient relationship and your vet’s approval), just for foods?

In case you’re like so many other pet owners who question this, here’s the answer:

Though it’s not well known to pet owners (or to some veterinarians, either) the FDA does not consider a “Prescription Diet” a prescription product. That’s because it doesn’t meet either of the two criteria for prescription requirements. Consider:

1) Animal foods do not meet the definition of a new animal drug (indeed, they are not drugs).

2) The container labels for Prescription Diets (notice the caps) do not include the federal legend required by the FDA for prescription drugs (i.e., they have not been approved by the FDA as safe and effective for their labeled indication)

The concept of a “prescription only” diet has merely been a marketing success for pet food companies who label their products as such and somehow manage to have engendered a belief that a product labeled as a “Prescription Diet”...requires a prescription.

But this is NOT TRUE! There is no legal basis for requiring a prescription for a product that is NOT regulated by the FDA as a drug. Shall I repeat that or was it sufficiently clear?

Nonetheless, it IS true that any private retail establishment has the right to require a veterinarian’s say-so before you can buy ANYTHING from them. Sure, PetSmart is not about to require a written script for leashes and kitty litter, but if it wants to do business with pet food behemoths like Hills and Iams, then they’re darn well not going to tick them off by failing to follow manufacturer requirements for sale of Prescription Diets.

So why does Hills, et. al. care? Wouldn’t they make more money if they allowed these diets to be distributed and sold more freely?

The answer is NO. The big pet food manufacturers know that their prescription lines are high profit centers for them. They build credibility for their other products when veterinarians recommend their prescription lines. And they know that veterinary recommendations only flow freely when veterinarians can control Prescription Diet sales and reap the benefits of being the exclusive sellers of these high-ticket items.

In fact, some veterinarians kicked up a stink when PetSmart and other big-box retailers started offering some of these diets. Despite the hurdle of a written Rx attached (making it tougher for clients to buy these foods on a convenience basis), many veterinarians switched to brands that didn’t sell to big retailers, effectively punishing the manufacturers for distributing to non-vets.

But this revolution was not televised, nor was it long-lived. When other food manufacturers saw the profit margins involved in selling to the big chains, they followed suit, knowing veterinarians couldn’t effectively complain when all of the major brands were doing the same thing.

OK, but what does all this mean for YOU? Unfortunately, the prescription designation means you’ll still have to pay more for your Rx-labeled foods. It means you’ll have fewer places to buy them. And it means you’ll still have to bring a doctor’s note when you want to buy them elsewhere.

So you know, your veterinarian can also legally deny you a written OK to buy foods elsewhere. That’s because even in states where vets are required to offer a written prescription for drugs, diets are not drugs and there’s no legal demand on their consent. Gotta love those loopholes. (Not that any ethical vet would use them since we’re talking about a product that doesn’t suffer from gray market counterfeiting.)

It also means that Prescription Diets don’t have to conform to the regulatory measures that govern prescription drugs. For example, should the manufacturer choose to change its formulation (i.e., when one ingredient starts to get more expensive) the company isn’t required by law to inform anyone so they’ll have sufficient time to stock up on their needed food or find alternatives.

This is but one of the problems some pet owners have encountered. Here’s a story: Louie the Chinese crested has intestinal lymphangiectasia. After much trial and error it was determined that he can only eat Royal Canin Digestive Low Fat Canned Diet with fish as the main ingredient. No longer available. It’s changed to pork. No notice. Louie’s family and friends are scurrying to collect all cans of this food from anywhere they can. How can they do this to us?

Because pet food companies who market their foods as Prescription Diets enjoy all the benefits of prescription labeling with none of the extra oversight and regulation. So much for free market fairness.


Ready to go!
Purred: Wed Jun 17, '09 9:47am PST 
That is an interesting article. When the vet said I might have to go on a prescription diet, last started scurring around to find what I needed and researched the backgrounds of the companies and their factories. She did not want me on one the the previously mentioned foods. We buy from two smaller USA companies that make no grain foods, with an occasionial Canadian foodsnoopy


Ready to go!
Purred: Sun Sep 20, '09 5:10pm PST 
Labbie nose bump up for Krickett. There is a chart many of us use to see how our dry kibble rates. You can use the chart if and do all the math if your food is not on the list that is already graded.


I'm all over the- place...
Purred: Mon Oct 26, '09 7:34am PST 
Labbie nose bump up for Marley....there is a lot of info here. The first post shows you how to rate your food.


You may- approach.
Purred: Mon Oct 26, '09 8:48am PST 
On this site, we found out that our kibble brands only get rated a 4, but Mom thinks they are good foods, VeRus and Eagle Pack. California Naturals and Solid Gold also only get a 4 rating, but we stopped getting those two because they contain canola oil.

Rating Dog Food

laugh out loudOk, had to come back to edit the web site link, Mom's hot link didn't work again. Click the red words and hit the Ctrl (control) key at the same time to get a new tab up top.

Or copy and paste:

Edited by author Mon Oct 26, '09 8:50am PST


Where's the- Ball?! Throw- the ball!!!
Purred: Fri Nov 6, '09 5:41am PST 
laugh out loudLong article, but has lots of ideas for re-vamping your diet!way to go



By Dr. Richard H. Pitcairn and Susan Hubble Pitcairn

Reprinted from: Dr. Pitcairn's New Complete Guide to Natural Health for Dogs and Cats.
© Copyright 2007. Permission granted by Rodale, Inc., Emmaus, PA 18098.

...Now it’s time to really talk turkey--to show you a variety of delicious, well-balanced recipes for feeding your animals. Fixing fresh, nutritious meals for pets is very little trouble once you get the hang of it. Many people even find it fun, especially when the concoction meets with the enthusiastic approval of an eager eater.

To ensure the best nutritional content, I again remind you to follow the recipes fairly closely. Do, however, use a variety of grains, meats, and vegetables rather than sticking to the same formula every time.

Where possible, the recipes very much exceed the minimal requirements usually recommended for feeding animals. It is my opinion that “minimum” is not the same as “optimal,” and I prefer that both dogs and cats have more protein and fat than available in commercial foods. For example, the minimum recommended requirement for dogs is 18 percent protein and 5 percent fat--yet the natural diet of wolves is around 54 percent protein and 43 percent fat (as fed at the San Diego Zoo). Big difference.

A frequent question I’ve tried to resolve over the years is how much to feed. The difficulty in giving specific amounts is that food quantity is extremely variable depending on what the food makeup is (especially fat content), the size and age of the animal, and its level of activity. Just consider the difference between the small Yorkie weighing 12 pounds and having almost no exercise and the 65-pound sled dog that is pulling heavy loads all day.

What I have found to be the most reliable approach is to feed what seems to be a reasonable amount, enough to satisfy the dog or cat in 20 minutes or so (not leaving food out during the day), and then monitor body weight.

A simple indicator: You should be able to feel your pet’s ribs easily as you slide your hand over his sides; if you can’t, he’s probably too heavy, so begin to feed a smaller quantity. Visible ribs usually mean the opposite, and you need to feed more. In cases of obesity, use the weight-loss recipes in the next chapter.

If you have a number of animals, you will, of course, need to multiply the recipe amounts accordingly.

Booster Mixes for Dog Kibble

Let’s start with something simple: three fresh food combos that you can add to a good-quality dog kibble, such as those sold at natural food stores. If you’re not ready to jump whole hog into the home-prepared diet, or if you have several large dogs, these shortcuts offer a convenient way to provide many of the benefits of fresh foods and nutritious supplements and still maintain nutritional balance.

By adding fresh meat, dairy products, vegetable oil, and food supplements, you boost your dog’s intake of quality protein, fatty acids, lecithin, B vitamins and minerals--all helpful for skin and coat problems.

Resist any temptation to simplify these additions by just throwing a slab of meat or a dash of oil on the kibble rather than following the recipes as given. Meat is dramatically low in calcium as compared with its phosphorus content, so using meat alone could result in a net dietary calcium deficiency. That’s why a calcium supplement is added to the recipes. Extra oil by itself is also counterproductive, as it will lower the overall percentage of protein and every other nutrient in the kibble, which may already contain a marginal amount of the essentials.

As with other recipes, you can always premix larger amounts of these supplements and freeze extras, thawing and using them as needed.

Here is the idea behind these supplements. I start with the likely minimum values present in many dog kibbles, e.g., 18 percent protein, 9 percent fat (or less), and about 67 percent carbohydrate (grains and vegetable products). Then I add in the good things I want you to add--fresh meat, vegetable oil, and vitamins--then balance for calcium and phosphorus. Of course a better quality, higher protein product will bump up the amounts, but likely not significantly (most commercial foods are not very high in protein or fat).

Here’s the first one.

Fresh Meat Supplement for Dog Kibble
3 pounds (6 cups) chopped or ground raw turkey*, chicken, lean hamburger, lean chuck, or lean beef heart
1/4 cup vegetable oil (cold pressed, organic)
1 tablespoon Healthy Powder (page 53)
1 1/2 teaspoons Group I** bone meal
1 tablespoon Animal Essentials calcium
(or Group III† equivalent for 3,000 mg calcium)
50–200 IU vitamin E
5,000 IU vitamin A with 200 IU vitamin D
(or alternate regularly with Fresh Egg Supplement, page 64)

Mix the oil, powder, bone meal, and vitamins together. Then combine the mixture with the meat, coating it well. At mealtime, feed about 6 tablespoons of this mixture for every cup of dog kibble served. You can either mix the meat supplement and kibble together or serve each separately. Yield: Slightly more than 6 cups.
* I assumed using whole turkey for my calculations in this recipe. Once mixed with kibble, it yields at least 30 percent protein, 20 percent fat, and 50 percent carbohydrate. Look at “Protein, Fat, and Carbohydate Content of Various Meats” on page 86, to see how proteins in various meats compare. Notice that the protein in whole turkey is half that of lean hamburger. You can, however, substitute meats without concern in this recipe supplement--if you prefer to keep the protein lower, then use correspondingly less of the higher-protein meats.
** Calcium and phosphorus in bone meal products vary. See the “Table of Calcium Supplementation Products” on page 67 to compare brands. I have grouped bone meal products into Group I, Group II, and Group III as a way of working with them in the recipes. If you use a brand from Group II in this recipe, then double the amount of bone meal indicated.
† If you are using the pure calcium from Animal Essentials instead of bone meal, use 2 teaspoons of Animal Essentials and add 2 tablespoons of brewer’s yeast to the recipe. If you are using one of the other sources of calcium from Group III, then adjust the amounts accordingly. If you are using another calcium source than is listed here, the total amount of calcium added in this recipe = 5,500 mg (5.5 grams).

Cottage Cheese Supplement for Dog Kibble
Cottage cheese is an inexpensive, convenient, and palatable source of protein that can boost the nutritional value of kibble.
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
1 1/2 teaspoons Healthy Powder (page 53)
1 teaspoon Group I bone meal*
5,000 IU vitamin A with 200 IU vitamin D
2 cups creamed cottage cheese
1/2 cup vegetables (optional)

* See “Table of Calcium Supplementation Products” on page 67. If Group II bone meals are used, double the recipe amount. You can also skip the bone meal and instead use 1 teaspoon Animal Essentials calcium. If you are using another calcium source than is listed here, the total amount of calcium added in this recipe = 2,000 mg (2 grams).
Mix the oil in the kibble. Toss in the powder and bone meal, coating the kibble; add the vitamin A. Serve the cottage cheese and vegetables together on the side, or mix them into the kibble. Add about 4 tablespoons per cup of kibble.Yield: About 2 3/4 cups

Mixed with kibble, it results in a combined food of at least 20 percent protein, 10 percent fat, and 60 percent carbohydrate. This is considerably lower in protein and fat than the meat supplement in the preceding recipe and is more suitable for the dog or cat that needs a lower protein diet or does not react well to a food that is too rich.

Fresh Egg Supplement for Dog Kibble
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
1 teaspoon Healthy Powder (page 53)
1 1/2 teaspoons Group I bone meal*
50–200 IU vitamin E
4 large eggs

* See “Table of Calcium Supplementation Products” on page 67. If Group II bone meals are used, double the recipe amount. If you wish to avoid using bone meal, skip that ingredient and instead add 1 teaspoon of Animal Essentials calcium. If you are using another calcium source (from Group III calcium supplements), the total amount of calcium added in this recipe = 2,500 mg (2.5 grams). Mix ingredients together. At mealtime, add about 2 tablespoons per cup of kibble. Use the eggs raw.Yield: 1 1/2 cups

Once mixed with kibble, this boosts the values to at least 20 percent protein, 10 percent fat, and 70 percent carbohydrate.


The following recipes are meant to form the mainstay of the fresh, home-prepared diet for dogs. See “Nutritional Composition of Recipes for Dogs” on page 68 for nutritional data on each recipe. Each recipe indicates how many cups to feed adult dogs of different breed sizes.

The weight range for each group is defined as follows:
•Toy: up to 15 pounds
•Small: 15 to 30 pounds
•Medium: 30 to 60 pounds
•Large: 60 to 90 pounds
•Giant: over 90 pounds

Amounts to feed will vary according to activity level, ingredient substitutions, weather, and so on. Let your dog’s appetite and weight be the ultimate gauge.

Doggie Oats
Oats are a good choice of grain for pets. Not only are oats quick-cooking, but they contain more protein per calorie than any other common grain. It’s best, though, to add some variety by substituting other grains at times (as recommended), because each grain varies in its amino acid composition and its vitamin and mineral levels. This versatile maintenance recipe for adult dogs provides a protein level of 33 percent (using turkey with the oats) and 30 percent fat. Substituting tofu for turkey lowers the protein and fat content considerably.

5 cups raw rolled oats (about 11 cups cooked)
3 pounds (6 cups) raw whole, ground, or chopped turkey
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 cup cooked vegetables (or less if raw and grated--may be omitted occasionally)
6 tablespoons (rounded 1/3 cup) Healthy Powder (page 53)
4 teaspoons Group I bone meal*
10,000 IU vitamin A (optional if using carrots)
400 IU vitamin E
1 teaspoon tamari soy sauce or 1/4 teaspoon iodized salt (optional)
1–2 cloves garlic, crushed or minced (optional)

* See “Table of Calcium Supplementation Products” on page 67. If Group II bone meals are used, double the recipe amount. The amount of calcium contributed by bone meal = 5,600 mg (5.6 grams).
Bring about 10 cups of water to a boil. Add the oats, cover, and turn off the heat, letting the oats cook for 10 to 15 minutes, or until soft. Don’t stir while cooking or the oats will become mushy. Then combine with the remaining ingredients and serve.
Yield: About 18–19 cups, with about 230 kilocalories per cup.
Daily ration (in cups): Toy--1 to 2; small--about 4; medium--6 to 7; large--about 8; giant--9+.

You can make substitutions in this recipe by using a different grain or meat (or both). See “Food Ingredient Substitutions” on page 74, for guidance. Varying the recipe to include different ingredients insures you have not overlooked some important nutrient and prevents deficiencies.

If you use oats or bulgur, you may occasionally substitute either of the following for each pound of meat: 1 pint cottage cheese plus 4 eggs, or 16 ounces of tofu plus 4 eggs. Add the eggs while the grain is still hot so they’ll set slightly for the best texture. See the next chapter for more vegetarian recipes suitable for dogs.

Mini Doggie Oats
For your convenience, here is the previous recipe, divided by 1/4.
1 1/4 cups raw rolled oats
3/4 pound (1 1/2 cups) raw whole, ground, or chopped turkey
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/4 cup cooked vegetables (or less if raw and grated--may be omitted occasionally)
1 1/2 tablespoons Healthy Powder (page 53)
1 teaspoon Group I bone meal (see previous recipe)
2,500 IU vitamin A (optional if using carrots)
100 IU vitamin E
1/4 teaspoon tamari soy sauce or a pinch of iodized salt (optional)
1/2 clove garlic, crushed or minced (optional)
Yield: About 5 cups, with 230 kilocalories per cup.
Daily ration: Same as for Doggie Oats (above).

Dog Loaf
This recipe uses egg as a binder; you can either serve it raw or bake it like a meat loaf, with bread crumbs or other grains. As presented here, with these ingredients, it is about 30 percent protein, 25 percent fat, and 42 percent carbohydrates. Depending on which meat and grain you use, the amounts of each ingredient will vary within acceptable ranges. The egg provides adequate vitamin A, plus there is vitamin A in the vegetables.

1/2 pound (1 cup) fairly lean beef chuck (low fat)
6 slices whole-wheat bread, crumbled (about 3 cups)
1 cup whole milk
2 large eggs
1/4 cup cooked corn or other vegetables (can be omitted occasionally)
1 tablespoon Healthy Powder (page 53)
1 teaspoon of Animal Essentials calcium (or a generous 1/2 teaspoon of powdered egg shell)*
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
100 IU vitamin E
1/4 teaspoon tamari soy sauce or dash of iodized salt (optional)
1 small clove garlic, crushed or minced (optional)

* These provide 1000 mg calcium from the Group III calcium supplements. See information on calcium supplements in “Table of Calcium Supplementation Products” on page 67. If you use one of the other sources of calcium from the Group III calcium supplements, provide 1000 mg.
Combine all ingredients, adding water, if needed, to make a nice texture. Serve raw. Or press the mixture into a casserole dish so it’s 1 to 2 inches thick and bake at 350°F for 20 to 30 minutes, or until set and lightly browned.
If you use a moist grain and don’t bake the mixture, you may choose to serve the milk separately rather than combine it in the mix. Another alternative is to mix 1/4 cup powdered milk right into the recipe.
Yield: About 5 1/2 cups, at 200 kilocalories per cup.
Daily ration: About the same (or slightly more) as amounts for Doggie Oats (page 65).
Beef substitutes: Try ground or chopped chicken, turkey, medium chuck, or hamburger instead of the beef in this recipe. Beef or chicken liver may be used once in a while, but not on a regular basis.

Here’s a truly inspired recipe, easy to remember and easy to multiply because it uses exactly one unit of each ingredient! It is also economical and ecologically sound, deriving part of its protein from beans. This recipe, using hamburger, contains 32 percent protein, 17 percent fat, and 47 percent carbohydrates. The amounts will vary somewhat depending on what meats are used. For example, the protein will be about 15 percent less with turkey or chicken, but, significantly, those meats will be about 70 percent lower in fat. To make up the difference, add extra fat in the form of lard, butter, or vegetable oil. (See the table “Protein, Fat, and Carbohydrate Content of Various Meats” on page 86 for more information on meat contents.)

The calcium to phosphorus ratio is acceptable, though a tad on the low side, so use other recipes occasionally to balance this out.
The key to convenience in this recipe is to cook large quantities of beans in advance. Follow the cooking directions on the package. Freeze extra quantities in 1-cup containers (or appropriate multiples if you increase the recipe) and thaw as needed. The main version uses rice because it’s a grain many people use in their own menus, but the other grain choices listed are higher protein and, for the most part, faster cooking.

1 cup brown rice (or 2 1/4 cups cooked)
1 cup ( 1/2 pound) lean hamburger (or turkey, chicken, lean heart, or lean chuck)
1 cup cooked kidney beans (about half of a 15-ounce can)
1 tablespoon Healthy Powder (page 53)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 teaspoon Group I bone meal (or 2 teaspoons Group II bone meals)*
1 10,000 IU vitamin A and D capsule
1 400–800 IU vitamin E capsule
1 teaspoon tamari soy sauce or dash of iodized salt (optional)
1 small clove garlic, crushed or minced (optional)

* See information on calcium supplements in “Table of Calcium Supplementation Products” on page 67. The amount of calcium added from the bone meal sources is 1,500 mg (1.5 grams).
Bring 2 cups of water to a boil. Add the rice and simmer for 35 to 45 minutes. Mix in the other ingredients and serve.
Yield: About 4 1/2 cups, at 250 kilocalories per cup.
Daily ration (in cups): Toy--a little less than 2 cups; small--about 4 cups; medium--6 to 7 cups; large--about 8 cups; giant--9 to 10 cups.
If you want to boost the protein content a little, add one large egg or 1 tablespoon of nutritional yeast.
Grain substitutes: Instead of rice, you may use (with the highest protein versions listed first) 2 cups rolled oats (+ 4 cups water = 4 cups cooked); 1 cup bulgur (+ 2 cups water = 2 1/2 cups cooked); 1 cup millet (+ 3 cups water = 3 cups cooked); 1 1/2 cups cornmeal (+ 4 cups water = 4 cups cooked); or 1 cup barley (+ 2 to 3 cups water = 2 1/2 to 3 cups cooked).
Bean substitutes: You may use one cup, of cooked soybeans, pintos, black beans, or white (navy) beans instead of kidney beans. Soybeans have the most protein.

Fast and Fresh: Dogs
Here are three really simple recipes for those inevitable occasions when you have an eager eater nudging you, and you suddenly discover that you’re all out of dog food, both home-prepared and commercial. These recipes are not meant to serve as regular fare, but they do provide a fairly complete meal made of basic items you’re likely to have on hand. You can feed them to your pooch up to two or three times a week.

Note: You may also feed any of the basic cat recipes (page 75) to dogs. They contain more protein than dogs require, but that’s no problem unless your dog is on a low-protein diet because of kidney troubles.

Quick Canine Oats and Eggs
1 cup raw rolled oats (or 2 cups cooked oatmeal)
4 large eggs
2 tablespoons Healthy Powder (page 53)
1 teaspoon Animal Essentials calcium (or a slightly rounded 1/2 teaspoon of powdered eggshell or 1,000 mg of calcium from another Group III calcium supplement)*
* See information on calcium supplements in “Table of Calcium Supplementation Products” on page 67.

Bring 2 cups of water to a boil. Add the oats, cover, and turn off the heat, letting the oats cook in the hot water for about 10 minutes, or until soft. (Use extra oatmeal from your own breakfast or else make some up.) Then stir in the eggs, Healthy Powder, and calcium. Let the eggs set slightly from the heat, then cool for a few minutes before serving.
Yield: About 3 cups, at 230 kilocalories per cup.
Daily ration: Same as for Doggie Oats (page 65). (Makes one meal, or a half-day’s ration, for a medium size dog. Double the recipe to make breakfast for a giant size dog.)
Grain substitutes: Instead of oats, you may use 1/2 cup bulgur (+ 1 cup water = 1 1/4 cups cooked) or 1/2 cup whole-wheat couscous (+ 3/4 cup water = 1 1/4 cups cooked).

Quick Canine Oatmeal
Here’s another simple recipe that uses only two eggs and may resemble your own breakfast.

2 cups raw rolled oats (or about 4 1/2 cups cooked oatmeal)
2 cups 2 percent milk
2 large eggs
1 tablespoon Healthy Powder (page 53)
1 teaspoon Animal Essentials calcium (or a slightly rounded 1/2 teaspoon of powdered eggshell or 1,000 mg of calcium from another Group III calcium supplement)*

* See information on calcium supplements in “Table of Calcium Supplementation Products” on page 67.
Bring 4 cups of water to a boil. Add the oats, cover, and turn off the heat, letting the oats cook in the hot water for about 10 minutes, or until soft.
Put the oatmeal into your pet’s food bowl. Mix in the Healthy Powder and calcium and top with the milk. In a separate small bowl, stir the egg slightly to blend the yolk and white, and give both to the dog. Or, you may certainly mix it with the oatmeal.
Yield: A little less than 7 cups, with about 160 kilocalories per cup.
Daily ration (in cups): Toy--2 to 3; small--about 6; medium--9 to 10; large--11 to 12;

(Editor's note: For more recipes, please refer to Dr. Pitcairn's book)

Ideal Dog Food
For dogs, the current AAFCO standards advise a minimum of only 18 percent protein for adult maintenance and 22 percent for reproduction and growth (previous recommendations have been as high as 28 percent for lactation). The minimal level for fat is 5 percent (8 percent for reproduction and growth), although feeding studies have shown dogs can tolerate rations up to 50 percent fat if otherwise adequately nourished.

There is a direct relationship between fat and protein in the diet. The more fat in the diet, the more protein is needed. There are metabolic interactions between the two, and when a diet is fattier, an animal will eat less to assuage its hunger. That’s why a dog can become undernourished if you add oil or meat drippings to its food without increasing the protein, vitamin, and mineral content accordingly.

Dr. Ben E. Sheffy of Cornell University in Ithaca, New York, has developed detailed minimum protein standards for dogs that range from 13 to 37 percent, depending on how much fat is in the diet and upon special needs, such as those described in the next chapter. All of our dog food recipes meet or exceed whichever of the standards is higher--Dr. Sheffy’s or AAFCO’s.

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